Artificial grass looks and feels right in Corpus Christi's heat and salt air, but only when the ground beneath it is built correctly. What you put under the turf, how much infill you use, and how well water moves through the system determine whether your yard stays green and level for years or develops odor, bare patches, and sunken seams. This guide walks you through the decisions and details that separate a solid installation from a shortcut job: the infill options, the base preparation that matters on Corpus Christi's sandy island soils and heavy inland clay, drainage rates and underlays, and the finishing work that holds everything together.
Whether you are converting a lawn that has burned out in the summer sun, building a dog run that will not turn to mud, or installing turf around a pool or patio, the foundation work is the same. We explain what to ask for, what to expect in writing, and how to tell whether an installer is doing the job right or cutting corners that will cost you later.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material that sits on top of the turf backing and between the fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it props the synthetic grass fibres upright so they look full and feel natural underfoot, it protects the turf backing from direct UV exposure, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting in the wind, and it plays a role in how quickly water drains through the system. Different infill materials are chosen for different reasons, and understanding the options helps you pick what works for your yard and your budget.
Silica sand is the most common and least expensive infill. It is fine, angular sand that settles into the turf and does the basic job of weight and support. Silica sand works well for general residential yards and is the standard choice when cost matters. Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often colored or treated with a polymer coating. The rounded grains are gentler on the turf fibres, reducing wear over time, and they move less easily under foot traffic, so they stay distributed more evenly. Coated sand costs more than plain silica but lasts longer and feels more comfortable. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odor. It is often mixed with sand in pet areas and dog runs because it helps control the ammonia smell that builds up in urine-soaked turf. Zeolite does not eliminate odor on its own, but it reduces it and extends the time between cleaning. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under names such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth and lower the surface temperature of the turf in hot sun. These products cost more than standard sand but can make a difference in pet areas and in yards where the heat is a real concern. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is used in sports fields and athletic courts where impact absorption and ball performance matter. It is not recommended for residential yards or pet areas because of maintenance, odor, and wear concerns.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot, and it is one of the most important details in a turf specification. The amount varies depending on the turf product itself, its pile height, and its intended use. A typical residential yard might use 2 to 3 pounds per square foot, while a pet area or a play surface might use 3 to 4 pounds per square foot. Putting greens and sports surfaces have their own requirements, often higher. The reason infill amount matters is that too little infill leaves the fibres floppy and unsupported, the backing exposed to UV, and the turf vulnerable to shifting and wear. It is also a common place where cheap installations cut corners: a crew might spread only 1.5 pounds per square foot to save money and time, and the turf will look thin and perform poorly within months.
You should always ask your installer for the infill amount in writing, specified in pounds per square foot, as part of the overall turf specification. Do not accept a vague promise that the turf will be "fully filled" or "properly infilled." The exact figure, tied to the specific turf product you are buying, is what protects you. If an installer cannot or will not give you this number before the job starts, that is a warning sign. A real installer knows the product and knows how much infill it needs to perform.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path to good drainage starts before the turf ever goes down. The first step is to remove the existing lawn, any old turf, and the roots that hold moisture and create an uneven surface. Once that is cleared, the ground is excavated to the depth required for the base material, typically 3 to 4 inches. If there is old concrete or a hard pan layer, it may need to be broken up or removed depending on the site conditions and what lies beneath. The goal is to get down to soil that can support a firm, well-compacted base.
After excavation, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid down in most residential yards. This barrier stops roots and weeds from pushing up through the base and through the turf, which can create lumps and soft spots. In some cases, such as a yard with excellent natural drainage and no weed history, the barrier may be omitted, but it is standard practice. On top of the barrier goes the base material, typically decomposed granite or crushed base rock, which is spread and compacted in lifts (layers) using a plate compactor. Compaction is critical: loose base material settles over time, creating dips and puddles that trap water and cause odor in pet areas.
For pet areas, play surfaces, and patios, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed on top of the compacted base before the turf is laid. This layer adds cushioning, improves drainage further, and helps with odor control. For hard surfaces such as concrete, balconies, or decks, the turf is never glued flat directly to the slab. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is laid first, the turf is installed on top, and edge drainage is provided so water does not pool at the perimeter. This approach prevents water from being trapped beneath the turf, which leads to mold, odor, and backing breakdown.
Base Prep on Corpus Christi Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Corpus Christi soil varies by location. On North Padre Island and in Flour Bluff, the soil is loose, sandy, and drains quickly. Inland toward Calallen and the Southside, the soil is heavy black clay that holds water and compacts hard. Both conditions require different base prep approaches, but the principle is the same: the base must be compacted firmly so it does not settle, and it must be graded so water runs away from the house and any pool or patio.
For sandy soils on the island, excavation is usually straightforward, and the base material compacts readily. The challenge is ensuring the grade slopes away from structures so water does not pool. For clay soils inland, excavation often encounters harder ground that takes longer to break up, and compaction is more demanding because clay is denser and more resistant to settling. In both cases, the base is typically 3 to 4 inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, spread in lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. Each lift is compacted before the next is added, so the final base is solid and level. An uncompacted or loosely compacted base is a common failure: as it settles over months, the turf develops dips and soft spots, water pools in the low areas, and in pet yards, urine collects and odor becomes a problem.
If your yard has a real water problem, drainage is fixed first or the job is declined. This means installing a French drain, a sump, or grading changes that move water away from the area. Putting artificial grass over a wet or poorly draining site is not a solution and will fail. The Corpus Christi building department can advise on grading and drainage requirements if you are uncertain about your yard's water situation.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass turf comes with different backing types, and the backing determines how fast water drains through. Perforated backing has small holes punched through it, allowing water to pass through to the base below. Fully permeable backing is a woven or mesh material with no holes, but water still moves through it because the material itself is porous. Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/sq ft). A typical residential turf might drain at 30 to 60 GPH/sq ft, while a pet or sports turf might be rated higher, 60 to 100 GPH/sq ft or more. A fast-draining backing is important, but it is only part of the picture: if the base beneath the turf does not drain, water will pool on top of the base and beneath the turf, and drainage fails.
Underlays and pads are optional layers installed between the base and the turf. They add cushioning, improve drainage further, and are especially useful in pet areas, play surfaces, and on hard surfaces such as concrete or patios. A good underlay has its own drainage rate and is permeable so water moves through it. On a concrete pad or balcony, the underlay is essential because it prevents water from pooling at the concrete surface, which traps moisture and causes mold and odor.
When you ask for a turf spec, the installer should tell you the backing type and the drainage rate. Do not accept vague language such as "it drains well." A real spec includes the number. The same goes for any underlay: its type, thickness, and drainage rate should be named. This information, combined with a well-prepared base, tells you whether water will move through your turf system or get stuck.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details are where you see whether an installer understands the job or is just laying turf and leaving. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet. A proper seam is joined with seam tape (a strip of adhesive-backed material) and seam adhesive applied to the backing on both sides. The grain of the turf (the direction the fibres run) must be aligned so the seam is invisible or nearly so. If the grain is misaligned, the seam is visible and catches the eye. A seam that is not properly adhered will lift over time, especially in high-traffic areas or where the ground settles. Lifted seams trap water, collect debris, and are a sign of poor workmanship.
Nails or staples hold the turf perimeter in place while the seam adhesive cures and to prevent the turf from shifting. They are placed at the right spacing (typically every 6 to 12 inches along the edge) and driven into the base, not into the turf fibre itself. Edging is the trim that defines the boundary of the turf. Common choices include bender board (flexible wood), metal edging, or a secured perimeter that prevents the turf from rolling up. Clean edges, tight to pavers or cool decks, are a mark of attention to detail. Ragged or loose edges let water and debris get under the turf and invite problems.
Power brooming is the final step. After the turf is installed and infill is spread, a power broom (a walk-behind machine with rotating brushes) is run over the surface. This stands the fibres up, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the turf a full, finished appearance. Without power brooming, the turf looks flat and the infill is clumpy. A visible seam, a lifted edge, or flat, unbroomed turf all tell you the installer cut corners.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that details every aspect of the installation. This spec is your protection and your reference if something goes wrong. It should include the following: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, nylon, or a blend); the face weight in ounces per square yard; the pile height in millimeters; the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot; the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot; the base depth, base material (decomposed granite, crushed rock, etc.), and compaction method; whether a weed barrier is included; the seam method and any edge treatment; cleanup and haul-off of old turf or debris; and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation). The spec should also include the total square footage to be installed, measured on site, and a breakdown of pricing if that is relevant to your agreement.
A spec is not a sales brochure or a promise. It is a technical document that tells you exactly what will be installed and how. If an installer cannot or will not provide a written spec, or if the spec is vague (for example, "quality infill" instead of "silica sand, 2.5 pounds per square foot"), you are not getting the detail you need to hold the installer accountable. A local, independent turf installation company names the product, the face weight, the infill, and the base depth in writing because that is how a professional works. For a free estimate and a detailed spec for your yard, contact us for an on-site measurement. You can also review our pricing page to understand how we approach the work.